How to Shop in Hong Kong

The headline should read, “How to Shop in Tuen Mun,” actually. You see, there’s no experience quite like making a little pilgrimage from Shenzhen to Hong Kong’s Tuen Mun neighborhood. This is a convenient little trip–one need only go to the Shenzhen Bay Checkpoint, and after crossing the border, it’s a cinch to hop a bus (the City Bus operated B3X) which terminates right in front of a shopping mall. The bus ride is a mere 20 minutes duration, and the double decker bus accommodates over 100 people.

Accordingly, this is a popular day trip for Chinese nationals in pursuit of goods not as easily or perhaps as cheaply picked up in Mainland China. The Shenzhen Bay Checkpoint has a reputation around here for being quicker than others–take the Futian crossing, for example, which is always crowded–but timing is very important with the Shenzhen Bay crossing.

Saturday we set off for HK via SZ Bay, arriving at the border around 9:15 am. We had a great day mapped out: watch The Last Jedi, then do some Christmas shopping. Based on our last trip, we’d be at the Town Plaza Mall, where the bus drops people off, in roughly an hour. But it didn’t go quite that quickly. Crossing the border took forever–it looked like every other person in Shenzhen was heading the same direction, all with wheeled luggage in tow. Wheeled luggage–the kind you take on a multi-night trip somewhere. Lots of travelers, I observed.

In terms of avoiding crowds, it seems 9:15 am was exactly the worst time to go. After waiting with toddler in carrier, back starting to ache quite thoroughly, for about an hour, we got through both passport checks. Much to our chagrin, where the previous time we’d been, there had been a line to the B93X bus that wasn’t terribly long, today was different. The line basically reached to the point you emerge from the border checkpoint building. Now they load those buses up quickly–two at a time, almost constantly departing, and that enables the queue to keep moving. However, one small hassle is the lack of signage. Sure, you can join the line easily, but how much will a ticket cost? That’s only posted down by the bus. So we had to make a little trek down there to find out. $11 HKD is the price, in case you’re wondering, and $5.50 for the 4 year old. We had that much cash, so no problem. Next, we headed back to the rear of the line, and being the sort of obedient Westerners we are, joined the queue there. Or, ok, maybe we merged into the general melee sort of near the back. Come on, we’d been there as long as anyone else, having made a mostly unnecessary trip to the front, so cut us some slack. Anyhow, this line didn’t move nearly as fast as before, but we finally ended up in a bus, and in the best seats in the house– the front, on the top.

This position gave us an excellent view of the nifty right-side-of-the-road to left-side-of-the-road switcheroo engineered into the highway. China drives on the right, same as the US, and HK on the left, so the transition seems like it would be awkward, but courtesy of a little loop and swoop, it’s easy as pie.

It was 11:30 before we arrived at the mall, which seemed an awfully long time. A handful of people had disembarked before the final stop, but most took their luggage and hopped out. We made for the movie theater, spent too much money on oily popcorn (I declined both the wasabi and tomato flavored options), and enjoyed seeing Star Wars on its opening weekend.

Afterward, we joined the hordes of people who’d thronged the mall. And as it turns out, the throngs we’d shared floor space with like human cattle at SZ Bay border crossing weren’t going away for the weekend. They were going shopping. The suitcases were for their purchases. You’d have thought you were on the concourse at Hartsfield-Jackson Airport, there were so many people rolling luggage around.

It looked like suitcase parking outside Yves St Lauren, which didn’t allow folks to haul the things into the store.

As luck would have it, our return trip also coincided with the returning time of thousands of other people, and we found ourselves again in a humongous line back into China. I can tell you the worst time to return from Tuen Mun is nightfall because that’s when everyone else is also heading home. A little earlier, however, around 4:30pm, and the border is a snap. We finished both HK and China inside 25 minutes on our previous journey.

As for those suitcases, everyone was just whizzing them home. “I wonder about customs?” We mused, as we watched everyone roll their stuff blithely past the customs line. Turns out, according to this article on the website China Highlights, you’d have to buy quite a lot of stuff to have any taxes levied. Guess the suitcases are just an ingenious way of carrying your loot easily. So it turns out the best way to shop in Hong Kong is to hop a bus at the border, roll your wheeled luggage along, and fill it with goodies at the mall.

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About Visiting Hong Kong

As we’ve rhapsodized about before, we love having friends the world over as a result of living and working abroad. Last week was one of China’s Golden Week holidays–a time when holidays coincide to allow an entire week off from work. We called up a friend (okay, we didn’t even do that, we just used Facebook messenger to get in touch) who lives in Hong Kong, a mere 30 miles away. This is a pal we met while working in Russia. She now resides in Hong Kong, and it seemed like the Golden Week might allow us the chance to get together. As it happened, though, she already had travel plans. So when she went on vacation to Japan, she set us up for the week in her lovely studio apartment.

#HongKong #MyView #RandTravels

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This meant we had a chance to explore Asia’s world city in a whole different manner than we’d have done if we stayed in a hotel.

Here’s the funny thing–after a week there, neither of us were blown away. We’d expected a place significantly different from Shenzhen. Don’t get me wrong; in Hong Kong you’re less likely to see a toddler popping a squat beside the road, but I did witness a kid taking a leak into a bottle his mom was holding while we visited a children’s science museum. There are signs posted all over the city forbidding spitting and littering, as well as stipulating mandatory fines for those behaviors. Indeed, before arriving in China, I’d heard horror stories about mainland Chinese people constantly spitting everywhere–and that maybe true of second tier cities, but I’ve only seen a few people hock up loogies during the seven weeks I’ve been in Shenzhen. That’s not to say it doesn’t happen, but it’s not a big problem I’ve encountered. Now, was HK cleaner? Maybe somewhat, but there was still plenty of grunge. In actuality, there are parts of Shenzhen which are cleaner (as well as dirtier, to be fair). Shenzhen shines in some respects, and even compares well to its much more famous neighbor. Let’s take the subway system, for example. SZ’s is nicer–cleaner, larger, better illuminated. While HK has a truly admirable network of public transportation, the electric buses in SZ are much quieter and represent a significant contribution to Shenzhen’s urban environment.

One of our friends here described Hong Kong as “China with a veneer of money,” if I recall his turn of phrase correctly. That’s accurate, although not everyplace in HK is wealthy. Regardless, HK represents a more picturesque place to spend time in than Shenzhen, with stunning cityscapes visible from Victoria Peak and Victoria Harbor.

It’s a big city, so there’s a ton of people. And with tons of people come huge crowds. Sometimes I wanted nothing more than to get away from the crowds. But then, that’s the same in Shenzhen. Now and again, popular places just get too packed for comfort.

We made a day trip to Repulse Bay, and found ourselves on a nice beach with pleasant scenery. It was relatively uncrowded, although there were bunches of people, often Filipinas enjoying themselves very loudly, occupying all the patches of shade. That was fine with us, as getting some sun is part of the reason we like going to the beach, but getting a tan is anathema to most folks occupying this neck of the woods. It was interesting watching the people and groups. There was a church conducting baptisms and singing praise and worship tunes. There was a 60 year old American man and his brother with a gorgeous 25 year old woman of Asian lineage (she was probably American, too, going by her accent) popping the cork out of a bottle of champagne. There were myriad women dressed up and striking poses while their spouses or friends snapped pictures, each doing their best to look like a model. And it must be said, the water was perfect for swimming.

During our days exploring via the cheap and fabulous Star Ferry, the famously creaky double decker trams, and also on buses and our own feet, we covered quite a bit of territory. For the most part, we took in all the touristy things on Hong Kong Island and Kowloon, while skipping Lantau Island, since we can get there easily enough another time. One day we walked more than 7 miles, and others we covered 5 plus. That was tiring, since Hong Kong Island is something like San Francisco in the sense that it is very hilly. In fact, there are even a series of outdoor escalators to help make life easier. The sidewalks are also there one minute, and all but gone another, depending on where you happen to wander, which makes life interesting.

#RepulseBay

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#VictoriaHarbour #HongKong #StarFerry #Skyline #Cityscape #HK #myhongkong #China

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#thetravelingzoo says "hello" from #hongkong #365 #lifewithkids #travel

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Some things we enjoyed seeing included Hong Kong Park, nearby the hugely popular Victoria Peak Tram (pro tip–go before 9:00 am), and the Zoological Park, which had a lot of monkeys who were very animated–except the humongous orangutans, who were more interested in lounging around with head coverings they’d fashioned from leaves than anything else. We found some of the temples, including Man Mo (which is in the process of being refurbished, by the way) interesting. Man Mo, for example, is named for two gods–the god of literature and the god of war. The customs observed by worshippers inside are very similar to those we observed when we visited a local Buddhist temple in Shenzhen (incense being burned, respect being paid, food and drink sacrifices being offered).

Lots of #steps lead toward #VictoriaHarbour

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Here’s something we learned about traveling to HK from SZ–it’s necessary to fill out an immigration card when leaving China (yes, HK is part of China, but it’s treated as if it isn’t), and there weren’t any signs or forms to indicate that. So if you’re waiting in line to leave China and there aren’t any immigration forms at hand, go to an immigration officer and get some. It’ll save 10 or 15 minutes and the necessity to step out of the queue, because they want the forms all filled out before you get to the desk. Hong Kong wants forms, too, and they give you a little 1-inch square piece of paper with a stamp on it you’ve got to keep, too, so that’s a slight annoyance, ’cause man, it’d be easy to lose.

Make friends, visit them, or at least visit their apartments. Build some good relationships with fine people and enjoy their hospitality when the opportunity arises. It is something which helps develop and expand horizons, and it also can provide entirely new options for exploring the world.

 

 

 

Shenzhen: First Impressions

1. Holy horrible humidity, Batman!

2. They take the border between HK and mainland China very seriously.

3. Hm. No English from the security guards at the international school we live at?

4. Green! Hills, parks, lining the streets.

5. Laundry on every balcony. I wonder what size that pink underwear is? Looks pretty big.

6. The people seem to enjoy trying whatever English they know on us. They also seem to love finding someone nearby who can help interpret.

7. Banyan trees are amazing!

8. Food is cheap.

9. Whoah, that’s a capacious, sparkling, clean subway system! And it has English on the signs and over the intercom. Sleek and modern. Air conditioned, too.

10. It’s way cleaner than we expected.

11. The kiddos get tons of attention. And we get stared at. And photographed.

12. Bamboo scaffolding.

13. Those cursed electric (i.e. silent) bikes and scooters going every which way on the sidewalks.

14. Typhoon Hato! Yeah, a typhoon!